Double Helix Rods, Frits and Powder are well known for their "Over the Top" special effects with dramatic, multi color Striking and Reducing colors.

Rod Diameter: 5 to 6 mm
Rod Length: 12"

COE: 104
Annealing Range: 920º F to 960ºF (493ºC to 515ºC)
Recommended Annealing Temperature: 940ºF (504º C)

Mesh sizes for Double Helix Glassworks Frits and Powder:
Fine: Between 20 mesh and 50 mesh
Coarse: Between 8 mesh and 12 mesh
Medium: Between 12 mesh and 20 mesh
Powder: Smaller than 50 mesh

User Guide
After flame striking the Striking colors, the colors will continue to strike further in the annealer. Higher annealing temperatures accelerate the kiln striking rate. After flame reducing the Reducing colors, the colors will oxidize in the annealer and can become unreduced and loose some of their luster. Higher annealing temperatures accelerate the oxidation rate.

Long periods of time, especially with higher temperatures may over strike or oxidize your target look. Garaging (Placing hot glass items into a hot annealer throughout the work secession prior to final annealing and cool down.) at a lower temperature of between 850ºF and 880ºF (454ºC and 471ºC) will greatly reduce the amount of kiln striking and oxidation. At the end of the work secession, bringing up the temperature to annealing temperature brings up every item in the annealer together. This way all items will either kiln strike or oxidize a similar amount, regardless of their differences in garage time. Normally, over striking and oxidation are not an issue for most lampworkers and usually only appears when the actual temperature in the annealer is higher than the pyrometer or temperature controller indicates. The striking and oxidizing rate varies between colors.

Hayley Tsang and Stephanie Bonniwell made a great Luna 2 tutorial for the Fall 2008 issue of The Flow Magazine.
PDF of Double Helix Glassworks Luna 2 Tutorial.

Reduction Guide
For Aion 2, Elektra 2, Gaia, Kronos 2, Nyx, Psyche.

1. Always use adequate ventilation.
2. Shape your piece in a neutral flame. (Shortest yellow candle.)
3. To begin the reduction process; remove your piece from the flame and allow to cool until no longer glowing hot.
4. Set a slightly reducing flame by turning your propane up. (Longer yellow candles.)
5. Pass your piece through the reduction flame for a few seconds. (Time to reduce varies by color.)
6. Remove your piece from the flame and check the reduction progress.
7. To further reduce the piece repeat steps 5-6.

Clean off undesired results in an oxygen rich flame.
Hot head users can produce a reduction flame by temporarily covering the air inlet holes with an aluminum foil collar or hot pad.

Nortel Minor Burner set to a slight reduction flame.

Striking Guide
For Khaos, Luna 2, Terra and Terranova 2.

1. Always use adequate ventilation.
2. Work in a hot neutral flame. Working too cool can result in milky colors. (Shortest yellow candles and no streaks.)
3. To begin striking; allow the piece to cool until no longer glowing hot.
4. Gently reheat. Multiple heating/cooking cycles can further develop the color, though a single cycle of the right duration yields the brightest colors.
5. Anneal at 940F.

Tips for specific colors

• Aion: Works best over dark colors.
• Gaia: Gaia has a short striking time. In just a few passes in the reduction flame she'll strike fully.
• Elektra: She's nearly impossible to overstrike. Almost the opposite from Gaia, you can have her in a reduction flame for longer periods of time and she'll just get redder.
• Nyx: Can also be struck in the kiln. Depending on placement, time and temperature, Nyx will fade through a series of blues.
• Triton: To get the mulit-colored satin effect, try reducing at the tip of a larger reduction flame, let cool, and briefly reheat at the tip of the reduction flame again. Triton will also make a beautiful mother of pearl effect when reduced first and then encased under clear.
• Pandora: No flame striking is required. To get the best results with your kiln we recommend you make a simple bead to use as a test. Anneal the test bead at your regular temperature. Pull out the bead at one hour intervals and check it's progress.
  As it strikes it will go Amber - Ruby - Purple - Green - Blue - Opaque Red.
  Make note of the results and use that information to achieve your desired kiln striking. If it does not strike enough for you in your time frame, you have two options;  Leave it in for an additional day's annealing cycle, or increase the striking temperature to accelerate the strike.

Top of Page